My Athens - A Chef's Guide

Athens is the perfect size: big enough to surprise you every time, small enough that the city still has a pulse you can feel. There's a beautiful disorder to it - ordinary doors hiding extraordinary kitchens. The restaurants have gone to another level and the hotels finally match. Move through three zones - the city, the Riviera and the Peloponnese - stay central, walk everywhere and eat late; Athens doesn't really start until 9pm.

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