"On the outskirts of San Sebastián in Pasajes San Juan, or Pasaia, there is a little 16th-century town on a harbour. You cross the water in a small boat that takes you from San Pedro to San Juan in about a minute. It's unique - one of the great seafood restaurants of the world. The building sits right on the waterfront, and its basement floods twice a day with the tide, so the owners use it to store their live seafood, which they bring up in a cage into the dining room with a pulley."