Shannon's Syros

"While I often flit between many Greek islands when trying to pin down a favourite, I always seem to land back in Syros. I think it's something to do with its authenticity, coupled with its clashing-but-cohabiting mix of cultures.' - Katie Silcox. Syros cares less about tourism than other islands, which means it offers a more real glimpse into Greek island life. It's got scale, too: the buildings are a mix of Cycladic, Venetian and Neoclassical architecture, bigger than those of its neighbours. Standing tall along Ermoupoli's coastline is the 19th-century Apollon Theatre, a replica of Milan's La Scala; the blue-domed, orange-fronted church of Agios Nikolaos; and the City Hall of Hermoupolis, built under Ernst Ziller, with a 15-metre entrance staircase to rival any European capital. Towering behind it all is Ano Syros, almost 900 steps above Ermoupoli - reward yourself with dinner at Hygge up there (a taxi can drop you at the door if you don't fancy the hike). The cultural scene is a big part of the island's identity - art, music, cinema and dance festivals throughout the year, with 2026 highlights including the Syros Heritage Festival in May, the International Festival of the Aegean in July, the International Rebetiko Festival in August, and music and jazz festivals in September. The beaches don't quite live up to those of its neighbours, which is almost a blessing - it's kept the island off the mass-tourism radar. Galissas, Delfini and Agathopes are worth a visit, and locals love Vaporia's concrete slab hanging over the sea below some of Greece's finest Neoclassical mansions. Ermoupoli is the provincial capital and a surprise packet - architecture, history, culture, atmosphere. A perfect little mini city of maybe 20,000 people, best seen after dark when the whole town turns celebratory around the harbour. There's something proper and industrial about it that keeps it honest: real jobs, real people, restaurants with regulars alongside the tourists. There's really nowhere I'd avoid - go with instinct and it'll probably be pretty good. And the irony: you can see Mykonos from any elevated point on the island, yet you're eating essentially the same ingredients, often better and with more provenance, at a quarter of the price."

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