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Syros

Syros cares less about tourism than its Cycladic neighbours, which makes it one of the most real glimpses of Greek island life. It has scale too - grand Cycladic, Venetian and Neoclassical architecture rising over Ermoupoli's harbour, a serious year-round cultural calendar, and honest, regular-filled tavernas serving the same ingredients as Mykonos (often better, with more provenance) at a quarter of the price.

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